An Overview of Enzyme Wash Applied on Garments

Enzyme Wash:

Enzyme wash is a bio-catalytic method where an ultra soft handle effect can be produced on garments. The hydrolytic effect of enzyme causes the loss of surface fiber, which improves surface smoothness and softness of the Garments. Cellulose enzymes are natural proteins which are used in garments washing to achieve stone wash look on the garments without using any stones or by reducing the use of pumice stone. Cellulose enzymes remove the indigo presents in the surface layer of fiber.

                                            

Enzyme Washed Ripped Denim Jeans

Objects of Enzyme Wash:

1. To remove the starch present on the garments.
2. To remove the size material from the garments.
3. For soft feeling to wear the garments.
4. For increasing the color fastness and rubbing fastness.
5. To improve the anti-pilling properties.
6. To achieve a very smooth surface of the garments.

After completing enzyme wash, the following change must be occurred for the garments-

1. Color,
2. GSM decrease,
3. Softener,
4. Strength.

Advantage of Enzyme Wash:

There are some advantages of enzyme wash, those are mentioned in the below:

1. Environmental friendly wash.
2. Increased luster.
3. Less damage of seams.
4. Less corrosive.
5. Soft feeling to wear.
6. Prevents tendency of pilling after relatively short period of wear.
7. Less time needed at rinsing after completing enzyme wash than stone wash.
8. Less damage of garments than stone wash.
9. Most economical due to more water saving.
10. Reduce labor engagement.
11. The enzymes can be recycled.

Limitations of Enzyme Wash:

Though enzyme wash has a lot of advantage but there are some limitations, which are discussed in the following:

1. Chances of back staining in the garments.
2. Post treatment required.
3. To remove the back staining, the garments are rigorously washed.
4. Garment load size of the machine is limited.

Difference between Natural Fiber and Man-made Fiber

Introduction: 

Fibers are the fundamental components of all textiles. There are mainly two types of fiber. One is natural fiber and another is synthetic or man made fiber. Natural fibers are extracted from plants and animals. Manmade fiber are polyester, rayon, viscose staple fiber. Its is a process of wood pulp chemically treated and processed to make a fiber equal to natural fiber with same qualities.

Natural fiber VS Man made fiber

Difference between Natural Fiber and Man made Fiber:

Sl. no.	Natural Fiber	Man Made Fiber
1	The fibers which we get from nature re called natural fiber	The fibers which are developed by man re called man made fiber
2	Generally fibers are hydrophilic	Generally fibers are hydrophobic
3	No. of molecule controlled by nature	No. of molecule controlled by man
4	Length of the fiber is nature given	Length of the fiber is controlled by man
5	We get fibers as staple or filament	No question about short or long staple fiber. It depends on man will
6	Less strength and durability	More strength and durability
7	No need to spinneret for spinning process	Spinneret is essential for filament production
8	The fabric made from natural fiber is comfortable and good for health	Man made fiber is not comfortable and not good for health
9	Natural fiber is not favorable for finishing	Man made fibers are favorable for finishing
10	Comparatively less durable than synthetic fiber	Man made fibers are more durable than natural fiber
11	Fineness varies from one fiber to another fiber	Fineness depends on the manufacturers
12	Natural fiber has a great demand as humans wear	Synthetic fiber is widely used in every day life except humans wear
13	Natural fiber is called environment friendly	Man made fibers are not environment friendly. Some fibers are harmful for the environment like: Polypropylene
14	Natural fibers needs to scouring and bleaching process before wet processing	Scouring and bleaching is done in very few cases
15	It is not possible to change in fiber structure	It is easy to change in fiber structure
16	It is expensive	It is cheaper
17	Bears crimp naturally	We have to give crimp manually
18	It grows with its natural color	Colors are added in the solution bath as required
19	It is easy to dye the fiber	Coloration is not so easy as natural fiber
20	Dust and impurities could be in natural fiber	No dust or impurities contain in synthetic fiber
21	The use of natural fibers are limited than man made fiber	Man made fibers are used in multi task than natural fiber

GSM Calculation for Woven Fabric

Introduction:

GSM (Gram per square meter) is an important matter in textile sector. Higher GSM fabric is heavier and lower GSM fabric is lighter. A woven garments merchandiser must know the GSM calculation method to ensure the right GSM fabric that ordered by the buyer (though suppliers are regularly mentioned about the fabric GSM).

GSM Calculation for Woven Fabric

GSM:

GSM stands at Gram per square meter. It is the weight of fabric in one gram per square meter. It’s unit is gm/m2.

Crimp Factor:

Crimp percentage or crimp factor is defined as the mean difference between the straightened thread length and the distance between the ends of the thread while in the cloth, expressed as a percentage.

Woven Fabric GSM Calculation Method:

During calculating woven fabric GSM from fabric construction, we have needed the following formula.

GSM (Gram per square meter),

Example:

Suppose,

A woven fabric construction is like that-

Now, calculate the fabric GSM.

Solution:

• Warp count- 50

• Weft count- 40

• EPI (Ends per inch) – 130

• PPI (Picks per inch) – 60

• Warp crimp factor- 1.2

• Weft crimp factor- 1.0

From the given fabric construction we can see that,

Now, by applying all the data in the required formula, we can easily find out the above woven fabric GSM.

GSM (Gram per square meter),

= (3.12 + 1.5) × 23.5

= 108.57

So, above woven fabric GSM is 108.57

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Types of Embroidery Used in Garments

Embroidery:

Embroidery is a craft work of decorating fabric or other materials by using needle and thread or yarn. Embroidery can also assimilate other materials such as pearls, beads and sequins etc. embroidery is mostly used on dress shirts, denim, caps, stockings etc. There are different types of embroidery used in garments.

Types of Embroidery Used in Garments:

Different types of embroidery used on garments are mentioned in the below:

1. Whitework embroidery,
2. Candlewick embroidery,
3. Cross stitch embroidery,
4. Pulled thread embroidery,
5. Hedebo embroidery,
6. Drawn thread embroidery,
7. Hardanger embroidery,
8. Crewel embroidery,
9. Surface embroidery,
10. Goldwork embroidery,
11. Redwork embroidery,
12. Blackwork embroidery,
13. Bluework embroidery,
14. Sashiko embroidery.

All the above types of embroidery are discussed in the following:

                               1. Whitework Embroidery:

                            This type of embroidery refers any embroidery technique, where                                             stitching is the same color as the foundation fabric. White on white                                         embroidery is looking beautiful and can be worked in a variety of                                             techniques including hardanger, surface embroidery and hedebo etc.

Whitework embroidery

2. Candlewick Embroidery:

It is one types of whiteeork embroidery that traditionally uses an unbleached cotton thread on a piece of unbleached muslin. This type of embroidery is made of groups colonial knots arranged in intricate patterns.

Candlewick embroidery

3. Cross stitch Embroidery:

This type of embroidery is a composite stitch consisting of two diagonally worked stitches, which form an “X” on the fabric. It is popular form of count thread embroidery.

Cross stitch embroidery

4. Pulled thread Embroidery:

This type of embroidery is a counted thread technique stitches, which are worked around groups of threads in the base fabric to form gaps, airy fillings, creating lacy, bands, borders and hems.

Pulled thread embroidery

5. Hedebo Embroidery:

This type of embroidery is one types of whitework originating in denmarak, perhaps as early as the 15th century.

Hedebo embroidery

6. Drawn thread Embroidery:

This type of embroidery is one kinds of counted thread embroidery, which is used to create open, airy designs in the space created by “drawing” or removing threads from basic fabric. It is also known as pulled thread work.

Drawn thread embroidery

7. Hardanger Embroidery:

Hardanger is a form of embroidery which developed on hardanger, Norway. This types of embroidery features cutwork and satin stitch arranged intricate, geometric designs.

Hardanger embroidery

8. Crewel Embroidery:

This is one types of decorative surface embroidery, which features plants, animals and sometimes people, arranged in a fanciful, flowing design. Crewel embroidery is worked in a variety of surface embroidery stitches. This types of technique is at least a thousand years old.

Crewel embroidery

9. Surface Embroidery:

This is refers to any types of embroidery, where the pattern is worked by the use of decorative stitches and laid threads on top of the foundation fabric. That means stitch is worked on the surface of the cloth.

Surface embroidery

10. Goldwork Embroidery:

This type of embroidery is an art of embroidery where metal threads are used. The main purpose of using metal wires is to make the threads have never been entirely gold; there have always been gold coated silver.

Goldwork embroidery

11. Redwork embroidery:

This is refers any types of embroidery which is worked in red thread on white or natural color fabric. This type of embroidery is most common in surface embroidery and cross stitch.

Redwork embroidery

12. Blackwork Embroidery:

It is a style of counted thread embroidery which is originated in Spain. This type of embroidery is traditionally worked in black thread on white or even weaves fabric.

Blackwork embroidery

13. Bluework Embroidery:

This is any type of embroidery which worked exclusively in blue thread on a white or natural colored fabric ground. It can be surface embroidery, cross stitch or crewel embroidery.

Bluework embroidery

14. Sashiko Embroidery:

This type of embroidery is a form of Japanese folk embroidery which uses a basic running stitch to create an intricate patterned background.

Sashiko embroidery

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